Water of Life
"STILL" UNDER CONSTRUCTION
Malt Whisky
Some time ago I started to collect bottles of malt whisky and whilst I most certainly do not profess to be a connoisseur, I did come to realise that they do taste different depending on the region and distillery. Sometimes the oldest most expensive type can taste like smoky tar and rock you back on your heels with a shudder and you can find some cheaper ones that are most comforting.
I have a few malts opened which I can talk about first hand and generally if I like one and it is not too expensive, it gets replaced straight away. The others last longer of course including a couple that will probably only expire through evaporation !
There are plenty of books available on Malt Whisky appreciation but there is no substitute for personal experience. Practical research on the subject is unusually enjoyable! I would be hard pushed to give an answer to the question - what is your favourite whisky? This depends on when I am drinking it and I don't think there is a truthful answer. The ones I get through quickest and replace are not necessarily my all time favourites. I am still trying to educate my palate and am willing to take any advice or suggestions in that direction.
TYPES OF WHISKY
There are two main type Malt and Grain. The malt or "single malt", can only come from one distillery and is usually matured for a number of years before use, these can then be mixed but if an age is quoted, it is always the age of the youngest malt in the mix. You can get single cask malts which are from a single distillation usually a bit pricey. Grain whisky is used for blending in the main. Blends are a mix of malts and grain that go to make up the conventional proprietary brands, very little grain whisky is bottled and sold on its own. To date I have not tasted any. Cameron Brig and The Invergordon are the only two names I can quote, I must get one for my collection.
The largest group of distilleries are in the Highlands and Islands with the most famous area being Speyside. There is also the Lowland group followed by Islay and Campbeltown. Though there are only a few Campbeltown distilleries left ( Glen Scotia, Longrow and Springbank). Every distillery tries to make their whisky an individual that can be recognised on its own merits.
I get my best purchases in Edinburgh where you find a few whisky shops but I tend to make my way onto the Royal Mile where I always go to the Royal Mile Whisky Shop. The man in there really knows his stuff and if not too busy he is happy to talk. Good selection of the nectar in there as well.
My Current List at 26 Aug 2000:
Cardhu Glenfarclas Glenfiddich Glen Grant Glenkinchie The Glenlivett The Glenlivett Archive Glenmorangie Glen Moray Haig Dimple Isle of Jura Laphroaig The Macallan Old Glen Tullibardine
Est. 1824 a Highland (Speyside) Single Malt, 12 yrs, 40% by vol. aged in oak barrels, one of the characteristics of the Speyside Malts is a hint of warmth and sweetness and this one follows that tradition. It has a good well rounded aroma with a strong flavour of spices. Aged in Oak casks for 12 years. If you want to try a significant malt whisky for the first time this is a good starter.
Single Highland, Speyside Malt, 15 yr old, 46% but not overpowering. To be treated with respect though. A mellow drink matured in Sherry casks. This is one that is well respected by the top tasters. It tends towards sweetness and this makes it a good drink from my point of view.
A Highland Malt (Speyside) most will recognise this one as it is one of the worlds best sellers. It is bottled at about 8 years old but you won't find that on the label. It has a history back to 1887. A pale colour with a slight sweetness. A good one to start with. The web site is www.glenfiddich.co.uk
Another Speyside Single Malt. I have two bottles - one a 10 yr old and the other 21 yr old. This is a good way to tell the effect of the ageing process. The maturation is in Oak Sherry casks and they impart a rich golden colour. The 10 year old leans towards dryness but as it gets older the taste changes and my 21 year old is definitely sweeter and has a more rounded flavour. I try not to finish off the older one but it is a losing battle as it is one of my favourites. Trouble is that it is also one of the more expensive ones.
This is a Lowland Scotch Whisky Est 1837, "The Edinburgh Malt". 10 yr old matured to perfection in seasoned oak barrels. 43% by volume and this shows when it first hits the tongue but the initial heat dissipates quickly into a mellow golden glow. A perfect aperitif to get the juices flowing before your meal. It is sweet from start to finish with an enduring warmth and this makes for a good flask for the tackle bag by the river (when out pretending to be after the trout, but really just daydreaming the time away basking in the sun and listening to the sound of the river). I have a book, "Collins Gem Whisky", that describes this bottle as the "driest and smokiest of Lowland whiskies. It is a fine, pale smooth whisky" - well I agree with fine and smooth but I don't think they were at the same bottle as me for the rest !! comments invited.
THE GLENLIVETT
Single Highland (Speyside) 12 yr old malt which is one of my regular tipples and I have been drinking this one for more years than I will admit to and it is always replaced. Matured in old Oak casks. Light and easy to drink for the beginner with a tendency towards sweetness. Not too pricey either - a bargain !
From George and J. G. Smith. This was a special edition I picked up in Edinburgh at the Royal Mile Whisky shop. The distillery (est. 1824) put down some specially selected and matured single malts and the Archive was born and this limited edition is from that Archive. The rich colour hints at Oak ageing and it is referred to as a single malt. 43% proof, no age is mentioned. The overall flavour is more rounded and full so it is different than the ordinary, lighter, Glenlivett. It has a definite sweetness with a warm and lasting aftertaste that evens out to a balanced dryness that hints at that flavour you get from the burnt fruit and nutty edges of the freshly baked Christmas Cake. Definitely a celebration style whisky with a distinctive flavour.
"Glen morran gee" is a well known and established 10 yr old single Highland Malt known the world over. Established in 1843 (see www.glenmorangie.com), it has sold more than any other malt in Scotland and the Scots are discerning folk. It is light and easy to drink smooth and medium bodied with a tendency towards dryness. It is matured in charred American Oak Barrels.
"Glen murrae" Established in 1897 it now comes from the same stable as Glenmorangie being owned by Macdonald and Muir and coming from the Glenlivett Distillery. This whisky has been changed recently. It would seem that in their wisdom they have chosen to change over maturation to wine barrels. When you buy you have to be careful as there are a few "varieties" now. They are all single Speyside malt. They are all sold in the same sort of presentation tins so you need to look at the label. My favourite is the 16 yr old, matured in Oak barrels - liquid gold, a sippin whisky to take into the garden on a warm night, perhaps accompanied by a fine cigar. Since the change over you now also get the 16 yr old mellowed in Chenin Blanc White wine barrels - supposedly to impart a dry finish. Lastly we have a bottle that shows no age and is mellowed in Chardonnay white wine barrels, I have not yet opened this bottle.
So I have three varieties but if you are buying, the one that shows no age should be cheaper than the other two. If I was to advise which to purchase out of the three, it would be the 16 yr old matured in Oak barrels.
This is the joker in the pack. Not a single malt. As yet unopened ( anyone out there want to tell me what it tastes like ?), I purchased this in a duty free shop on a trip abroad.
When I lived in Nigeria and Malta as a young child, I can remember my father always had a bottle of Dimple. With its distinctive shape and netting (originally put on by hand to stop the corks coming out in transit, now put on as decoration) it was attractive to look at. So for a change my reasons for puchase are more sentimental than Bacchanalian. 43% by volume it is described on the bottle as a Fine Old Original 15 yr old De Luxe Scotch Whisky. Selected and bottled by J Haig & Co, Edinburgh, Scotland.
Est. 1810 the Isle of Jura Distillery Co. Ltd. is the only distillery on the Island. This is a 10 yr old Island malt. This is one Island malt that I find very acceptable, it is the nearest I have come across that can be compared to a Highland malt. There is a trace of the Islands smoke, peat and seaweed there but it is balanced out by an initial sweetness that fades slowly away leaving the palate clean, none of the sort of aftertaste that you get with Laphroaig.
(La - froyg) Established in 1815, it is a Single 10 yr old Islay Malt. From the Island of Islay in the Western Isles of Scotland. Peaty and Smoky with a strong aftertaste it would be an acquired taste, hard to drink in anything but the smallest tots. I bought this as it is a classic Islay malt. This one is by appointment to the Prince of Wales and is described as the most richly flavoured of all Scotch Whiskies. See more at www.laphroaig.com. I will not rubbish any of the whiskies as taste is a very personal thing. I have to make some comment though and this flavour is one I personally can not get away with. It is reminiscent of a medicine or antiseptic or an ointment from the distant recesses of my memory. Smoke, tar oil, I can't quite put my mind on it. If you see it on sale in a pub try it because it is a powerful example of the strong flavours that are in a lot whiskies bundled into one potent brew. I suspect that some of the "proper" or professional tasters will say that I have wimped out here. I am quite pleased I bought this one though because I defy anyone to fail to pick this one out from my other whiskies in a blind tasting.
THE MACALLAN
Single Highland 10 yr old (Lower Speyside) Malt. Unlike any of my other examples. The distillery make a point of using Oak Casks. They buy fresh oak casks into which they pour mature carefully chosen sherries which are kept for a further two years in Spain before being shipped over. Other distilleries are saving money by moving away from the oak sherry casks (see Glen Moray). The colour is a rich dark brown and you can smell the sherry as well as catch the flavour. There is a definite initial sweetness that fades slowly into a dry aftertaste in which the sherry is still noticeable. If I were to chose a good time for this whisky to be enjoyed it would be after a sweet - straight after your Christmas pudding on Christmas day comes to mind. But of course if you have it in you might as well have it anytime you fancy ! www.themacallan.com
This was one I bought in Asda, it was the same price as the proprietary blended brands but it is a 12 yr old Single Highland Malt 40% by vol. Distilled and bottled in Scotland, selected by Douglas Macniven & Co. Ltd. Medium to light bodied with some sweetness but fades quickly leaving a dry indecipherable aftertaste (in fairness I just tasted the Laphroaig and may have to come back to this one with a clear palate). I do think it is reasonably priced for a 12 yr old malt and it is easy to drink.
A Single Highland 10 yr old malt from Blackford in Perthshire. Slight sweetness to the taste with a lot of flavour when it hits the mouth, not overpowering though. The aftertaste creeps up on you and is quite subtle and lasting.
CONCLUSION
So we arrive at the end of my list. As I acquire new bottles I shall add them on with my notes. As I have said before I am working on the tasting and nose to try to develop myself and if unfortunately this means consuming large quantities of fine malt whisky - so be it !! I will not let you down, I will have to soldier on gamely. I have noticed that my "keyboard skulls get impeared after a wheel" but I can always rely on the spellchucker ;-)
Links and Information:
Royal Mile Whisky
379/381 High Street, Edinburgh EH1 1PW
Phone: 0131 225 3383
Fax : 0131 226 2772
The Whisky
Shop of Edinburgh
Waverley Market, Princes' Street, Edinburgh, EH1 1BQ
Tel: 0131 556 5688
Fax: 01877 331 343
The Cadenhead Whisky Shop
172 Canongate, Edinburgh EH8 8BN